An official from the group confirmed that discussions have begun, with a meeting held on Friday, July 11. The next step involves “meeting with various handmade shoe manufacturers.”
The official added that they will collaborate with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce to identify manufacturers holding the ‘geographical indication’ seal for potential partnerships.
The controversy arose in June following the presentation of Prada’s menswear collection for 2026 in Milan. Thousands on Indian social media noted the striking resemblance of a sandal model featured on the runway to Kolhapuri sandals.
This traditional footwear, handcrafted using vegetable-tanned leather, is part of everyday life in the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka, where it is locally sold for between 800 and 1,000 rupees (approximately eight to 11 euros).
Its cultural value and manufacturing method earned legal protection as a ‘geographical indication’ in 2019 (a type of legal protection similar to that enjoyed by French champagne or Iberian ham).
After a surge of criticism on social media, the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce sent a formal letter to the fashion brand. The dispute intensified legally when an intellectual property expert filed a public interest litigation, claiming the Italian group not only disregards cultural tradition but also violates ‘geographical indication’ protection.
The controversy, which touches on themes of patriotic pride and cultural justice, has reportedly increased the demand for these traditional sandals in India.
In recent years, global fashion brands have faced repeated criticism for cultural appropriation in their offerings, with claims that these moves go beyond inspiration and contribute to erasing cultural origins without proper acknowledgment.
In 2019, Mexico accused designer Carolina Herrera of using patterns and embroidery typical of indigenous Mexican communities in her collections, questioning whether the indigenous communities would benefit from the creations.
Similarly, in 2021, Mexico accused brands Zara, Anthropologie, and Patowl of cultural appropriation for using patterns from Mexican indigenous groups without providing any benefits to them.
In 2021, in Portugal, controversy arose after a ‘copy’ of the traditional Póvoa sweater, typical of the local fishing community, was launched in American designer Tory Burch’s collection, initially promoted as Mexican-inspired.
Under media pressure, the designer admitted the mistake, changed the garment’s description on the website selling it for 695 euros, and issued an apology on social media. She also reached an out-of-court settlement with the Póvoa do Varzim Municipality and committed to establishing a protocol with the municipality to support local artisans.
Last year, the traditional production of the Póvoa sweater was integrated into the national register of traditional artisanal productions, with its manufacture protected through a specification document, including geographical production area delimitation.
